Essex Man Does Walking

I didn’t have too bad a sleep, usually on the first night it is far worse but I reckon I was so tired that it helped. Rob moaned about my snoring. I had my new stove on for a cup of coffee and some porridge. The first food stop on our journey would be Yarmouth but it would be a while before we get there so something in my stomach was needed.

We decided against the solar showers, probably a bit cold this time of the morning. The tent was taken down and we were off.

We headed out of the campsite and back down the road towards the Horse & Groom. Rather than walk along the side of the busy road we opted to take another path we would meet up with the Coastal Path a small bit down the road. We started off walking through a few meadows and then joined up with the coastal path walking through a forest.

We expected the path to head right and towards Hamstead Quay but instead another diversion was in place which looked as though it would cut about 1-2 miles off the walking. We joined back up with the Coastal Path and headed left along the coast. There were occasional glimpses of the sea but diversions because of erosion and landslips kept it out of sight. From here we headed into Bouldnor Forest and Heathland before heading down to the sea. We passed some wild campers and then found a rope swing. Rob decided to test out how strong it was. The path turned into a boardwalk through some undergrowth before we again headed away from the sea.

It wasn’t long before it turned back and we ended up walking along the sea wall with Yarmouth Pier in sight. Entering the town we headed towards the town square. A lovely place, full of history. We wanted to be full of food. So we kept on towards the ferry to Lymington and grabbed some sausage rolls and a coffee. Instantly we were mobbed by birds as we sat down at the Marina. We shared a bit of pastry with them, and after a rest headed off around the marina and onwards.

Heading over the swing bridge we turned back to the coast and was once again walking beside the sea. The path then headed upwards through Fort Victoria Country Park. This was wooded and we emerged with the sea to our right but we turned and walked up hill. The path then heads through what looked like a Gulag concentration camp but was in fact a holiday park. Had good reviews when I looked it up but it was rather communist in structure.

The path headed out of the holiday park and up and down again towards the coast. From here we walked along the sea wall again towards Totland Bay. Hurst Castle on the mainland was shrouded in the mist. We passed Totland Bay pier which was shut but thankfully other places were open for a drink. We then headed on too far before a look at the GPS made us backtrack and up some steep steps beside a cafe.

We headed up some fern covered sandy trails on Headon Warren, qute a popular place particularly at the top of Headon Hill. Not much to see though as we were greeted by fog. The trail went steeply down a rocky incline and after a while the famous chair lifts of the Needles came into view. I knew that this meant we would have to climb the stairs up to the amusement park but at least we could get food and water at the end.

After the most tasteless hotdog ever we headed up the road to the Needles. Rob was looking forward to seeing them for the first time but as we got closer it was evident we might be lucky if we could see a few metres in front of us. A Sea Fret as my old man would call it where the warm air and the cold sea meet meant that the walk up to the battery and across Tennyson Downs was shrouded in fog throughout. Thankfully there was a fence stopping us from inadvertently walking over the cliffs. Reaching the end of the downs we headed down and out of the fog.

The trail headed into the pleasant Freshwater Bay and then up out of it. We met another diversion here which headed us away from the cliff top walk and across a golf course and down the other side before crossing the road and rejoining the coastal path. From here though it was an uninterrupted walk along the cliffs om the rapidly improving day. A quick stop at a National Trust mobile cafe and a quicky melting ice cream and we were off again. Again diversions spoiled the last slog as we had to head down a busy road before turning into the Grange Farm Campsite.

We checked in and chose a spot close to the edge of the cliff. Quite a popular camp site. Rob noted there wasn’t any alcohol in the camp shop so after we put up the tent he headed into the village and returned later with a couple of bottles of wine. I made some pasta when he was gone but needed something else so went to the mobile food shop on the site and ordered some food or myself and Rob. We sat down to eat on a glorious evening. As we finished the food I noticed a few bees near me. They took a liking to me and headed in for a closer look. I ran like a loon arms waving as they went after me. Having escaped I headed back and was confronted by more and more bees. A bloody swarm of them! They were hanging around campers parked nearby and wouldn’t leave us alone. Having been brought up on classics like Killer Bees I ran for the tent and zipped it up. Safety.

Rob stayed out, obviously he was not as much to their taste but occasionally you could hear him make a move away from the bees. As the Sun set they moved off and all was fine again. Rob had brought his Dwarf Mini telescope along and proceeded to get some shots of the moon and the Milky Way. I went to bed. Rob went to bed about 2am.

Distance travelled: 22 miles