Essex Man Does Walking

A walking journal of an Essex man


Coastal Path – Stanford-le-Hope to Tilbury

Roughly a year ago I finished up the coastal path near Stanford-le-Hope and haven’t really had the opportunity to go back and finish the last leg towards London.

It looked as though it was going to be a good day on my day off so I penciled it in. Thankfully the weather forecast stayed true to its word. Although, you are never sure along the estuary so packed a second fleece and rain mac as well!

11 miles 3.5 hours

I walked to Leigh on Sea station and took the train up to Stanford-le-Hope. From the station it is a mile trudge out of town to the coastal path. I picked up where I finished last time and headed the wrong way! I realised straight away and went the correct way which then ended up joining the path I had headed to anyway.

A gravel path led through a conservation area, passing by lakes and birdwatchers hiding in their huts. A few people about and it was getting hotter so got rid of the fleece and the legs of my trousers. A diversion sent me off route but not for long before heading into another conservation area.

The trail then joined up with the railway line. I guess this epitomises the last few legs of the coastal path, industry on one side and nature on the other. A lovely reservoir on my left and the trundle of 30 freight trucks on my right! The trail turned away from the railway line and went around the end of the lake before heading off into a wooded area which opened out onto fields. I had to give way to two big horses at some point, the trail not big enough for all of us.

I reach the sea wall and look out on the Thames, bit misty today but still quite hot out here. The trail runs along the Thames side of the sea wall, overgrown in parts but easily accessible. A lovely bit of the walk, quiet except for the water beside me.

After a while I reach Coalhouse Fort and had a quick walk around it before heading back on the trail. A diversion is in place as they are building the lower Thames Crossing here and the path goes around the back of it before joining up with the original trail.

It is here I meet a worrying sign which suggests at High Tide the path may be under water. I have no clue when high tide is or how long the path may be at risk so I head on keeping an eye on the Thames water as I go. The path heads down and I can see why it may be a problem. Bits of driftwood and rubbish line the side of the path, evidence of how far the tide comes up. On my other side a 10 foot sea wall! Thankfully there are escape ladders every so often.

Heading around an inlet I spy the second fort on the trail Tilbury Fort. Plenty of guns line the walls ready to repel any unfortunate sea gulls. A big cruise liner is ready to take passengers away on my left. They are obviously not put off by the news of the plague on one cruise ship recently. You wouldn’t see me on them. The end of the coastal path is in sight and I pass the aptly named ‘Worlds End’ pub. Looks closed. Typical. So I trudge up past the cruise terminal and a long walk to the station. A bottle of beer awaits me at home.



Leave a comment